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THE PUNCH FEATURES

Exploring the Art of Natural Dye
Process with RIMMBA's Founder, Karunia

February 2024 – Words by Karunia Fisher – Photography by The Punch 

Embracing the essence of the Indonesian term "Rimba," which refers to lush forests and wild jungles, RIMMBA invites you on a journey immersed in ethical craftsmanship. Founder Karunia, inspired by her magical childhood and the enchanting stories of Rimba's inhabitants, carefully handcrafts plant-dyed elegance. The brand embarks on a mindful exploration, revealing the beauty of nature through exclusive pieces made with love and dyed using a mix of traditional Indonesian methods and modern techniques.

INTERVIEW

Meet Karunia Fischer -
Founder of Rimmba The Brand

CAN YOU SHARE RIMMBA'S STORY WITH US?

"RIMMBA's botanical-dye silk dresses and garments began gaining attention among friends and Instagram followers just as the pandemic took hold. Unfortunately, the pandemic led to the closure of Bali's airports, crippling the entire island and ultimately affecting RIMMBA, which was a local retail brand at the time featured in boutiques across the island. Confronting the collapse of RIMMBA in 2020, I made the challenging decision to adapt to the ever-changing pandemic landscape. The existing business model no longer had a place in the world, prompting the need to rebrand and restart with an entirely new direction.

It was at this juncture that I actively chose to showcase my true passion for plant dye. I had spent several years prior exploring natural dyes, studying various dye techniques globally, and traveling to different Indonesian islands to learn traditional methods. Additionally, I had the privilege of studying under knowledgeable and respected teachers in Bali's plant dye community. I began documenting my journey of working with plant dye, foraging seasonal fruits and botanicals to create rich, vibrant colors. Sharing my insights attracted a following, including many textile students and curious learners. As I dyed fabrics at home, my collection expanded, and followers started reaching out for custom dresses which took RIMMBA in an entirely new direction.

My Instagram following and engagement grew, and soon, orders were pouring in for the natural dye dresses I crafted, each one unique. Requests escalated to bespoke wedding dresses and special occasion garments. The precision required for customization emphasized the need for my own atelier and tailoring team. In January 2022, I stumbled upon a small tailoring shop in Babakan and met Pak Risky, a skilled tailor with extensive experience. He offered his 9 sewing machines for sale, aiming to send his son to university. Seizing the opportunity, I sold my bike, purchased the machines, and set up my first cutting table. I hired Pak Risky to work with me, using his original sewing machines. As my first senior tailor, he brought expertise in pattern making, cutting, and sewing silk. In the first year, our team expanded to include 5 full-time members. This marked RIMMBA's shift from a retail brand to an online, bespoke garment brand."

CAN YOU DESCRIBE THE ARTISANAL CRAFTSMANSHIP PROCESS INVOLVED IN CREATING RIMMBA'S EXCLUSIVE PIECES?

"With a custom garment design, a one-of-a-kind garment comes to life through the art of natural fabrics and botanical dyes, and in turn, supports Bali’s local communities, revitalizing traditional dye techniques, and preserving it’s cultural heritage. Crafting a bespoke piece at RIMMBA is an intimate and collaborative journey, placing the customer at the heart of our creative process. The experience begins with an invitation to visit our atelier, fostering a personal connection with RIMMBA’s team of master sewers, pattern makers, and artisanal dyers, with me, as a mentor. The design process is an enjoyable exploration of their vision. Armed with references, sketches, and preferences for colors and occasions, the customer presents their dream garment. I refine these ideas to seamlessly align with silk fabrics and our expert sewing skills. Throughout the crafting of the custom dresses, the design organically evolves through collaboration between our team and the customer. Creating 2-3 dress samples in cotton allows for experimentation with fabric choices—silk satin, silk chiffon, silk organza, or other fabrics and embroideries—fine-tuning the final design. Simultaneously, I explore various colors and plant dyes, selecting them based on the customer’s personality, energy, and seasonal availability.

Our belief at RIMMBA is profound—each plant possesses an energetic purpose, guiding individuals in times of need. From indigo empowering intuition to sappanwood fostering inner peace, the choice of plant dyes is a deeply thoughtful process, connecting with customers’ energy and needs. The journey doesn't end with the design; each sample undergoes meticulous adjustments during the fitting phase. This labor of love requires constant adjustments and tweaks, ensuring that every single garment embodies the essence of our customer’s vision and our brand's commitment to craftsmanship. This collaborative journey will lead you to the culmination of their vision—one meticulously cut and sewn final garment in the luxurious, botanically dyed natural fabric of their choice."

HOW DOES RIMMBA CONTRIBUTES TO SUSTAINABILITY IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY?

"At RIMMBA, sustainability is not a trend but a guiding principle of our brand. From using organic, 100% natural, and traceable fabrics to embracing zero-waste patterns and natural dyes, our commitment to the environment is reflected in every stitch. We believe in making only what is needed, emphasizing quality over quantity, and fostering relationships with local artisans and communities. Our headquarters operates on a sustainable lifestyle, recycling, and composting, while we invest in education and empowerment, funding our staff’s children’s schooling. Through give-back programs like the Jiwa community garden, we actively contribute to the well-being of the communities we engage with. RIMMBA proudly supports the slow fashion movement, where timeless elegance meets ethical practices, creating a sustainable future one garment at a time."

HOW DOES RIMMBA ENGAGE WITH THE LOCAL COMMUNITIES & ARTISANS?

"RIMMBA is all about creating a harmonious connection with our community. Based in Bali, the island renowned for masterful craftsmanship, we partner with skilled artisans including dyers, weavers, sculptors, woodcarvers, and tailors. Our inclusive business model encompasses every aspect, from dress creation to tags and packaging, involving Balinese communities in Tejakula and Desa Tenganan. These remote communities, located far from the city, communicate in both Indonesian and Balinese, fostering authentic connections within the culture of local artisans. This unique approach allows us to integrate various artistic skills into our business model and designs. Inspired by Bali and its talented artists, RIMMBA is forever evolving, refining, and infusing new art and details into our brand's ethos. We believe the energy of the people crafting our garments resonates with joy and intention, creating an energetic celebration for our customers to experience when they wear a RIMMBA garment."

WHAT MESSAGE DO YOU AIM TO SHARE WITH THE INDUSTRY?

"RIMMBA creates high-quality, finely crafted garments designed for longevity. Bali, like many places, experiences a surge in cheap and fast fashion. Unfortunately, Indonesia lacks significant regulations on chemical waste from the fashion industry. The manufacturing and dyeing of synthetics in Indonesia pose potential harm to our land and environment. At RIMMBA, our commitment is to protect rather than damage our surroundings. In our dye process, we abstain from using chemicals, and instead utilize natural materials in our dye baths while reusing waste water when we can and disposing of it responsibly. Fortunately, there's a growing sustainable movement in Bali, and we fully support and advocate for this positive shift across various industries."

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